In The News | 3 November 2022

SAFW summarised and African textile & apparel exports cross $2bn/quarter for the first time.

In The News | 3 November 2022
Fikile Zamangcino Sokhulu, AW23 at SA Fashion Week | All Runway Images by Eunice Driver Photography | Official SA Fashion Week Runway Photographer


Vogue Business reports on Lagos Fashion Week's growing global impact.

Inside Africa’s leading fashion week
Vogue Business went backstage at Lagos Fashion Week to hear from African designers about what styles work and how they plan to play on both local and international levels.

Prosper Africa lays out the continent's creative industries' investment potential by evaluating progress on the four main components needed for an efficient, sustainable ecosystem: human capital, market linkages, financial capital, and regulatory infrastructure.

Investment and Partnership Opportunities in Africa’s Creative Industries - Prosper Africa
Increasing Trade and Investments Between the United States and Africa

African countries are gaining ground as preferred textile and apparel manufacturers in the global supply chain, as development advances here and cost saturation peaks in Asia.

Africa emerging as major apparel supplier; exports cross $2 bn in Q1
Africa is emerging as a major apparel producing and supplying hub in the world. Textile manufacturing is now shifting from Asia to Africa due to cost saturation in the former...
Cotton exporter Benin developing home-grown textile industry
On a large factory floor in southwestern Benin, dozens of young people cut, stitch and assemble cotton shirts - part of a major push by the West African country to develop its textile sector.

Ahead of COP27, Nigeria's Assembly Hub is platforming tRACEs, a multimedia project and exhibition bringing fashion designers, 3D artists, and a community located on a landfill in the heart of Lagos together to address climate change using fashion, design and storytelling and to globally amplify local climate injustices.

Selected creative workers will develop 'solarpunk' characters and a suite of items belonging to these characters, all inspired by the host community, in preparation for a final exhibition/showcase. tRACEs will also host a series of interactive workshops that will explore climate change, sustainable fashion and indigenous materials and production techniques from a local perspective.

South Africa

Harvard's Centre for African Studies has interviewed designer Gavin Rajah on his career, body of work and practice in South Africa.

Tshwane University of Technology honours accomplished arts, music & fashion leaders, including designer David Tlale, with honorary doctorates.

TUT honours Mzansi giants in arts, music and fashion
The Tshwane University of Technology (TUT) on Monday paid tribute to four South African giants for their contribution in art, music, fashion

SA Fashion Week partners with Fashion Revolution to improve and increase the platform's sustainability advocacy.

SA Fashion Week and Fashion Revolution partner to advocate sustainable design
The first phase of Fashion Revolution’s involvement in SA Fashion Week will focus on integrating the sustainable slow fashion ethos into the DNA of all SAFW competitions...

TFG has quantified the loss that led to its large order of Tesla powerwalls: 99,000 trading hours were lost to loadshedding in 3 months, even though the group remained profitable. Their lead womenswear brand Foschini has also named a new brand ambassador.

Load-shedding: Foschini loses 99,000 shopping hours in three months
The Foschini Group lost 99,000 trading hours in the three months through September because of rolling blackouts.
Award-winning actor Zola Nombona is Foschini’s new brand ambassador
She announced the news on Thursday, saying she is honored to carry the heritage of a brand she loves.

Buntu Ngcuka speaks to Nao Serati's Neo Mofammere, Good Good Good's Daniel Sher and Mantsho's Palesa Mokubung about the business of fashion for Intuition, a new free magazine by MC Saatchi & Abel highlighting the stories of entrepreneurs.

The Business of Fashion, in Intuition magazine | By Buntu Ngcuka

Fikile Zamangcino Sokhulu, AW23 at SA Fashion Week | All Runway Images by Eunice Driver Photography | Official SA Fashion Week Runway Photographer

SA Fashion Week: In Review

The simplest summary for this season of shows would be to call it splintered: the only common thread was the absence of one.

On one hand, it could be a symptom of South Africa's similarly fractured industry landscape, where slow progress on collaboration and resource consolidation often hamper the growth of independent brands. On the other, it could be a signal of the growing strength of these divergent veins, communicating that sections of SA's infrastructure have matured enough to support deeper diversification. The proof of one over the other will be in the common characteristics of the brands that survive the next few years.

Bam Collective, AW23 at SA Fashion Week | All Runway Images by Eunice Driver Photography | Official SA Fashion Week Runway Photographer

Emerging brands like Bam Collective, Munkus and Fikile Zamangcino Sokhulu expanded on brand-building signatures and commanded the most buzz, while young but maturing brands like Artclub & Friends hit the reset button in the design department. Enhle Mbali's Essie Apparel surprisingly stumbled on fit, finish and range edit. Returning brands like Black Coffee and Loxion Kulcha executed successful runway returns on daring departures from their standard fare.

The designers' shows were set against the backdrop of the infrastructure that's failing them all: Loadshedding caused major disruption on days 2 and 3 when Mall of Africa's backup power failed in the section of the mall that plays host to SAFW.

Loxion Kulcha, AW23 at SA Fashion Week | All Runway Images by Eunice Driver Photography | Official SA Fashion Week Runway Photographer

The trade show was a strong showing of retail-ready brands (alongside the emerging talent represented by the Scouting Menswear finalists and the FEDISA student competition participants) and yielded (reported but as yet unofficial) international development opportunities for brands that have kept growth steady and trending upward over the past few turbulent seasons.


Elsewhere, inflation is deepening the divide between young designers from different socioeconomic backgrounds, the Fashion Innovation Centre explores fashion-tech developments from across the globe, brand executive Ana Andjelic demonstrates how brands are experimenting with web3, and the Ye-Adidas divorce could lead to a battle over who can exercise what rights over the designs and the brand.

Wake-up Call: The ‘Dire’ Financial Inequity Facing Young Designers Under Inflation
Inside the urgent struggle facing young designers from low- and middle-income backgrounds.
Global Fashion-Tech Frontiers Explored
Do you know what type of fashion tech is being adopted in different parts of the world? As the fashion industry radically changes, technological innovations are pushing the limits in manufacturing, retail, production, textile and sustainability. The good news is that the application of disruptive an
How Ashwini Deshpande became a Digital Fashion Designer at Meta
Welcome to the first edition of How I Became..
Shein’s new resale programme won’t make it any more sustainable
Shein launched resale on the same day a documentary was released about conditions in the fast fashion brand’s factories. Experts say resale can’t override the exploitation and overconsumption in its business model.

Apologies for the missed week, folks — basically, my body had a small break down after a hard few months, and I needed space to recover. I'll be winding this down for the year in the 1st or 2nd week of December, with occasional updates on AFWeekly's LinkedIn/Twitter/Instagram, should any big news come along. After that, we'll resume mid-January.

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